Problems
When something goes wrong in the tank
Plain-words guides to keeping fish well, and to fixing things when they aren’t: how to spot it, what to do right now, and how to stop it coming back.
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Why are my fish dying?
A calm checklist for when fish are dying and you don’t know why.
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Care basics
Get these right and most problems never start. They’re the same things you juggle in the game: heat, pH, flow, space and food.
Cycling a new tankA new tank needs weeks to grow the bacteria that make fish waste safe. How to cycle without fish, save fish in an uncycled tank, and know it's done.
Heating and coolingMost tropical fish want about 24–26°C. How to choose and size a heater, where to put it, how to cool a tank in summer, and how to match fish by temperature.
Changing pH safelyNeed to lower or raise aquarium pH? Stability matters more than an exact number. Test KH first, then change it slowly with RO water or crushed coral.
Fish size and tank sizeThe fish in the shop is a baby. Check its adult size first, then pick a tank long and wide enough for that adult. Why "1 inch per gallon" is only a rough guide.
Bottom, middle and top fishFish live at the top, in the middle or on the bottom of a tank. Stock all three levels without crowding any one, and feed each level where it eats.
Plants and spaceA good layout gives fish places to hide, open water to swim in and broken sight lines that calm fights, while leaving room to clean and for water to flow.
Water flow and currentsSome fish need a strong current, others want calm water. Learn to read your tank's flow, fix dead spots, and add or tame current safely.
What fish eatFish can be meat eaters, plant eaters or both, and feed at the top, middle or bottom. Here's how to pick foods that match each fish, and keep them fresh.
How often and how much to feedMost adult fish need one small meal a day, only what they finish in about two minutes. Here's how to make sure every fish, shy or bottom-dwelling, eats.
Sicknesses and problems in the game
Every one of these is a card in Multiple Tank Syndrome, and a real thing that kills real fish.
disease
Ich (white spot)White grains of salt on your fish? That's ich. How to confirm it, treat the whole tank, and why you keep treating after the spots are gone.
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disease
Velvet (gold dust disease)A fine gold or rusty dust on your fish, with fast breathing? That may be velvet. How to check with a flashlight, and how to treat it before it kills.
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disease
Fin rotFrayed, shrinking or white-edged fins are usually fin rot. Fix the water first, then treat. How to tell mild from serious, and when fins grow back.
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disease
Columnaris (cotton wool mouth)White fuzz on the mouth or a pale saddle across the back can be columnaris, a fast bacterial disease. How to tell it from fungus and what to do today.
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disease
Hole in the head (HITH)Pits and holes on your fish's head or along its side? That's hole-in-the-head. What causes it, how to treat it, and what we know about carbon.
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disease
Gill flukesFast breathing, flashing and one gill held shut can mean gill flukes. How they spread, how praziquantel works, and why one dose isn't enough.
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disease
Camallanus wormsRed threads sticking out of your fish's vent are camallanus worms. How they spread, why you treat the whole tank, and how to deworm properly.
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water
Ammonia spikeAmmonia reading above zero and fish gasping? What to do in the next hour, why pH and temperature make ammonia deadlier, and how to stop it coming back.
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water
Chlorine and chloramineAdded tap water without conditioner? Dose dechlorinator for the whole tank right now. Why chloramine doesn't evaporate, and how to protect fish next time.
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accident
Soap and contaminantsSoapy hands, hand cream, bug spray or cleaner got into your tank? What to do in the next hour, how carbon helps, and how to keep it from happening again.
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disease
Dropsy (pinecone scales)A swollen fish with scales sticking out like a pinecone has dropsy. What causes it, what you can try, the honest outlook, and how to euthanise humanely.
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water
Algae takeoverGreen water, brown dust, hair, black tufts or blue-green slime? Identify your algae, fix the cause (light, nutrients, flow) and clean up without hurting fish.
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water
pH crash (old tank syndrome)pH has dropped below 6.5 in a tank that hasn't had water changes in months? Why KH runs out, and why fixing it too fast kills fish. A safe step-by-step plan.
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equipment
Cold tank / heater failureTank colder than it should be? How to warm it safely (slowly), why a cold snap often leads to ich, and how to size heaters so it doesn't happen again.
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disaster
Power failurePower out and no filter, heat or air? Oxygen first, then warmth. Don't feed, protect the filter bacteria, and what to do when the power comes back.
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More problems, not in the game
Diseases, water trouble, algae, behaviour and equipment, plus how-tos for everyday jobs.
Diseases and parasites 18
Anchor wormsThin threads sticking out of a fish, with a red sore at the base? Anchor worms. Pull them carefully, then treat the whole tank or pond for weeks.
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Betta fin rotRagged, shrinking betta fins? Clean warm water fixes most fin rot. How to tell rot from fin biting, when to medicate, and what healing looks like.
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Black spot diseasePepper-like black dots on pond or wild fish are usually fluke larvae (black grub). They can't spread in a home tank and are mostly cosmetic.
Not urgent
Bloated or constipated fishSwollen belly? Look from above: flat scales usually means constipation or eggs; pinecone scales means dropsy. Fasting, daphnia and when to worry.
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Costia (Ichthyobodo)Costia is a tiny skin and gill parasite that causes a blue-grey slime coat and flashing, and can kill young fish fast. How to confirm it and treat it.
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Fish liceFlat, see-through discs crawling on your fish? Those are fish lice. Remove them, treat the whole tank or pond for weeks, and scrub away their eggs.
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Fish TBFish TB (mycobacteriosis) causes wasting, bent spines and sores, and has no reliable cure. It can infect people through cuts. Protect fish and yourself.
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Fish fungus (white fuzz)White cotton-like fuzz on a fish is usually a water mould growing on a wound, but it can be columnaris (bacterial). How to tell and treat each.
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Hexamita (Spironucleus)Hexamita are gut parasites behind white stringy poop and thin cichlids. Why medicated food beats water dosing, the hole-in-the-head link, and vet help.
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Internal wormsA fish that eats well but stays thin, or has white stringy poop, may have internal worms. How to choose the right dewormer and keep shrimp and snails safe.
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LymphocystisLymphocystis is a virus causing white, cauliflower-like lumps on fins and skin. It usually clears in weeks. Never cut it off; fix stress and water.
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Malawi bloatA swollen belly, no appetite and white stringy poop in mbuna or Tropheus. Act fast: isolate the fish, call a vet about metronidazole, and fix the diet.
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Neon tetra diseaseNeon tetra disease is a parasite with no reliable cure. Learn the signs, how to tell it from bacterial false neon disease, and how to protect your tank.
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Popeye and cloudy eyeFish eye bulging or cloudy? One eye usually means injury; both eyes usually mean water problems or infection. Fix the water first, then treat.
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Septicemia (red streaks)Red streaks in fins and red blotches on the body can mean a blood infection. It's serious: isolate the fish, fix the water and call a vet today.
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Swim bladder problemsFish floating, sinking or swimming sideways? Swim bladder disease is a symptom, not one disease. Test the water, fast for 2–3 days, then feed less.
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Trichodina and ChilodonellaTrichodina and Chilodonella are skin and gill parasites that cause slime, flashing and gasping. How to confirm them, treat them and fix the cause.
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Lumps and tumoursA lump on your fish could be a tumour, cyst, virus, parasite or abscess. How to tell them apart, what a vet can do, and how to judge quality of life.
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Water problems 14
Cloudy waterMilky, green or tea-coloured water? The colour tells you the cause. Most cloudiness is harmless, but cloudy plus a bad smell or gasping fish is an emergency.
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OverfeedingCloudy water and gasping fish after a big feed? How overfeeding crashes a tank, how much to really feed, and how to handle gel foods like Repashy.
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Bubbles, foam and surface filmMost bubbles are normal: filters, pearling plants, betta nests. Foam that won't pop or an oily film means waste, overfeeding or soap. How to fix it.
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Copper in the tankCopper in a fish tank can kill shrimp and snails at tiny levels. Find the source (pipes, medicines, fertilizer, coins), test for it, and remove it safely.
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White fuzz on driftwoodWhite fuzz or slime on new driftwood is usually harmless biofilm that fades in a few weeks. How to remove it, what eats it, and signs the wood is rotting.
Not urgent
Gas bubble diseaseTiny bubbles in fins, under the skin or behind the eyes mean the water holds too much gas. Find the air leak or cold-water cause and degas the water today.
Act within the hour
Fish gasping for airFish gasping at the surface is an emergency. Add air, check the temperature, test for ammonia and nitrite, and change water with conditioner now.
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Goldfish changing colourYoung goldfish often change colour naturally. Sudden black patches can be healing ammonia burns, and fading can mean too little light. Test the water first.
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High nitratesKeep nitrate under about 20–40 ppm for most fish, lower for shrimp and sensitive species. Test your tap water, change water, feed less and add plants.
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Nitrite poisoningNitrite above zero in a new tank stops fish blood carrying oxygen. Change water daily, add a measured dose of salt, and let the tank finish cycling.
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Shrimp dyingCherry shrimp dying one by one or all at once? Check for failed molts, copper, flea treatments and sprays, big water changes and unstable GH. What to do today.
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Fish tank smells badA healthy tank smells earthy. Rotten eggs means hydrogen sulphide; a sharp rotten smell means something died. Find the source and fix it safely.
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Yellow or brown water (tannins)Tea-coloured water from driftwood or leaves is tannins: harmless and loved by blackwater fish. How to tell, and how to clear it if you don't like the look.
Not urgent
Distilled, RO, rain or well water?Can you use distilled, RO, rain or well water in a fish tank? Why pure water needs minerals added back, how to mix it with tap water, and well-water risks.
Not urgent
Algae and pests 10
Black beard algaeDark, tough tufts on leaves, wood and the filter? That's black beard algae. Spot-treat it, trim it, and steady your CO2 and flow so it doesn't return.
Not urgent
Brown algae (diatoms)Brown dust on glass, sand and leaves in a new tank? It's diatoms. They're harmless, wipe off easily, and usually fade on their own within weeks.
Not urgent
Cyanobacteria (blue-green slime)Slimy blue-green or dark red sheets that smell bad? That's cyanobacteria, not algae. Siphon it out, black out the tank, and fix flow and nutrients.
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DuckweedDuckweed soaks up nitrate and shades fish, but it spreads fast and can cover the surface. How to keep it in check, remove it, and never let it escape.
Not urgent
Green spot and green dust algaeHard green dots on glass and slow plants are green spot algae; check phosphate and scrape. A soft green film is green dust algae: wait, then wipe.
Not urgent
Hair algaeHair algae means light and nutrients are out of balance. Pull it out by hand, cut the light, check iron and phosphate, and add Amano shrimp.
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HydraTiny tentacled creatures stuck to the glass? Hydra sting and eat fry and baby shrimp. Cut feeding first, then treat if needed, protecting your snails.
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Planaria and white wormsWhite worms on the glass? Most are harmless detritus worms. Planaria glide and have an arrow-shaped head; they're a threat to shrimp eggs and babies.
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Pest snailsTiny snails everywhere? A snail boom almost always means too much food. Feed less, trap and remove them, and avoid copper snail killers.
Not urgent
Staghorn algaeStaghorn algae is grey-green, branching red algae. It points to unstable CO2, weak flow or built-up waste. Remove it, spot-treat, then fix the cause.
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Behaviour, feeding and care 7
Aggressive fishOne fish chasing, nipping or eating the others? Separate the bully or the victim today, then fix crowding, hiding places and tankmates.
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Betta not eatingBetta refusing food? Check the temperature (about 26°C / 78°F) and the water first. Causes, how long a betta can go without food, and when to worry.
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Fish flashingFish flashing (rubbing on rocks and gravel) is usually itchy skin from parasites or bad water. Use this checklist to find the cause fast and fix it.
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Glass surfingFish pacing up and down the glass or hanging at the top? Test the water first, then check tank size, reflections, bullies and hiding places.
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Fish jumping out of the tankFound a fish on the floor? Get it into tank water now; some recover even when they look dead. Then find out why it jumped and close every gap in the lid.
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What plecos eatPlecos can't live on algae and leftovers. Some need vegetables and wood, others need meaty food. Here's how to feed your pleco so it doesn't starve.
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Stressed fishClamped fins, pale colours, hiding or glass surfing? Find the stressor, fix the water first, and stop stress turning into disease.
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Equipment and accidents 6
Heat wave / overheatingTank over 30°C and fish gasping? Warm water holds less oxygen. How to add air, cool the tank slowly and safely, and what not to do with ice.
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Cracked or leaking tankTank cracked or leaking? Cut the power safely, lower the water below the leak, and move fish with their filter media. Then decide: reseal or replace.
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Electrical safety and drip loopsWater and power share every fish tank. Drip loops, a GFCI or RCD outlet and unplugging before you reach in prevent shocks. Felt a tingle? Read this now.
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Fish stuck to the filter intakeFish pinned to the filter intake or fry sucked inside? Unplug it, free the fish gently, then fit an intake sponge. And ask why the fish got stuck.
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Filter not workingFilter slowed to a trickle, run dry or won't restart? Fix it today: the bacteria start dying when the water stops. Here's how to restart it safely.
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Heater stuck on (overheating)Water climbing and fish gasping? Your heater may be stuck on. Unplug it, add air, and cool the tank steadily. Here's the safe emergency plan.
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How-to guides 12
Cleaning your tankA safe cleaning routine: change 20–30% of the water weekly, vacuum the gravel, match temperature, use dechlorinator, rinse filters in tank water.
Not urgent
Acclimating new fishBringing new fish home? Float the bag to match temperature, don't pour bag water in, keep lights off, and quarantine first. Shipped fish need special care.
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Aquarium saltAquarium salt is plain sodium chloride. It helps with nitrite, some parasites and hospital tanks, but is no tonic. Doses, cautions and sensitive fish.
Not urgent
Found a dead fishFound a dead fish in your tank? Remove it now, test for ammonia, check the others, and dispose of it in the bin or by burial. Never flush it. Here's how.
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Disinfecting a tankStep-by-step bleach and alcohol methods for disinfecting an empty fish tank, nets and equipment, what to throw away, and when leaving a tank empty is enough.
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Hybrid fishHybrid fish can't replace wild species. How hybrids happen in home tanks, why pure lines of fish like the zebra pleco matter, and what to do with hybrid fry.
Not urgent
How long fish liveMost small aquarium fish live 2–5 years, bettas 3–5, and goldfish 10–15 or more. A lifespan table, signs of old age, and how to keep an old fish comfortable.
Not urgent
Moving a fish tankMoving a fish tank across the room or to a new house: bag the fish, keep the filter media wet, move the tank empty and set it up again the same day.
Not urgent
Cats, dogs and kidsCat in the fish tank? A secure, weighted lid fixes most pet and child problems. Plus how to stop overfeeding and keep flea treatments and sprays away.
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Quarantine tankA hospital or quarantine tank keeps new and sick fish apart so disease can't reach your main tank. How to set one up, how long to quarantine, and how to dose.
Not urgent
Are my rocks safe?How to tell if a rock is safe for your fish tank: the vinegar fizz test, metal veins, sharp edges, collecting rocks outdoors, and safe vs risky types.
Not urgent
Going on vacationHealthy adult fish can skip a few days of food. For longer trips, use a tested auto feeder or a friend with pre-portioned food, not a feeder block.
Not urgent